The shuttle 51 that becomes shuttle 53 at Gua Musang is the main local train that cannot fail during the school semester. It is aptly named as Keretapi Budak Sekolah. Sam and I boarded this train at Tanah Merah to go all the way to Kuala Lipis. The reasons are; 1) to experience the early morning ride as the school children so as to understand what they are going through every day to go to school, 2) after a long while on the express trains to experience the shuttle that stops at every halt along the route to Kuala Lipis, 3) to observe the locals on the train.
The cool morning breeze blew against us as we walked out of the hotel. It was not that cold but with the minimal sound of normal life enough to create a sense of anticipation and suspense. The street lights were not bright enough to change that. It was not really a scary feeling but I felt we need to walk faster and cross the main road to the station. I would say from the Humaira Hotel to the station was just about 200 metres but due to the construction of the flyover we had to detour a bit and the walk became 300 metres or so. We walked in at the station at 0441. It was less than 5 minutes walk.
We were the first to be at the station and took a seat at one of the marble benches as we entered. The station was partially lighted and you could not see clearly beyond 50 metres. The darkness engulfed us just as you were looking at someone camping in a wood with only a small camping lights lighting where the person is sitting. Looking around and sitting on the cold marble bench I felt a sense of loneliness as someone being sent away on an unknown journey. I was deep in my reflection.
A few minutes after we arrived a few other passengers showed up. Mostly locals that use the train often and a few newbies. I knew some were newbies when they asked when the ticket counter going to open. The answer for them, it was not going to open as it was too early. I told them not to worry as you can pay on board as you do on a bus. To the locals, it is indeed just another bus. I was told once that one of the regular in this train is a Chinese school teacher living in Tanah Merah. I search her from afar and I thought I saw her.
Through the dark still morning, we started to see a small dot of shining light appeared. The light was moving and getting bigger over a few minutes. Then the growing light was accompanied by a familiar sound of an engine and eventually the sound of blaring horn that was music to my ears since I was small. Shuttle 51 approached Tanah Merah Station at 0510. This train originates from Tumpat. Daily, it departs Tumpat as early as 0410 on a national agenda to keep the school children in a secluded part of Kelantan in school. Shuttle 51 is not about making money but a national service that some take for granted. This train is not only well-known among train fans as it is also being written and documented by the local media at the national level. There is an element of romance for this train as well. There was one telefilm shot with the train as the main backdrop of the story. Historically, the school students have been taking the train almost daily, since its existence, to school in Dabong. The return trip for them was another Shuttle train that picked them up daily at around 1500 which meant the students would be at home late in the evening. They repeated this every day during the school terms. Only in May 2009 life was a bit better for them when KTMB introduced and air-conditioned shuttle between Tumpat and Dabong. The students still boarded Shuttle 51 to school every day but got to go home a bit early when the Dabong Tumpat shuttle was strategically timed to leave Dabong at 1400 pm daily.
Powered by the old and overused 24 series locomotive, Shuttle 51 arrived, in train community speak, before time, 8 minutes earlier of schedule at 0511. The locomotive was pulling three coaches and one Power Generator Coach (PGC). As soon as we boarded the train departed Tanah Merah into the darkness. We settled down in our seats to enjoy the ride.
We reached Temangan, the first station after Tanah Merah, at 0527. I wrote about the significance of this station to me before so I refrain from being a ‘kakatua' bird. It just when we reached Temangan it was still very dark and the station was unmanned.
Cold and sleepless, still I refused to sleep. In fact, the excitement prevented me from sleeping. I was excited but I did not know what exactly I was excited about? I just could not really nail it. I mean, yes I was excited to be on the train after all the dreams of boarding it. Yes, I was excited to be able to experience it and capture to immortalise it the best I could with my camera and writing. Still, I could not nail what is the real excitement of that day. Maybe a combination of a lot of things that include my expectations and reality. My resolve was to make it one of the best days of my life.
Two German tourists were onboard with us. Most probably they boarded at Wakaf Baru. I knew them as German when we chatted at Dabong. Later, funnily he complained about the coach being too cold whereas he came from a town in Germany that the normal weather temperature is almost -10 degrees daily ha ha ha
By now I was already in rhythm with the sound and movement of the train. I was not only part of the train but to a certain degree, I was the train. It dawned on me I could be the engineer of the train helping to manoeuvre the train along every day. Whoever he was that day he must know he was not just driving the train but also carrying the needs of humanity and the nation.
We arrived at Kuala Krai at 0552 and it was still very dark outside. I got out onto the platform to shoot a few frames. I still remember the morning we boarded the same train two years ago to go on an adventure at Slow Pok Long. A few passengers boarded.
We waited at Kuala Krai for a while as the train was before time, early. I continued to stay on the platform and looking around me for something interesting to shoot. I have been at train stations in the early morning since my school days that I took things for granted a bit. Very early morning at Seremban, Gemas, Bahau, Mentakab, Kuala Lipis, Ipoh, a few minutes before Tanah Merah and all other major stations. I am so used to that kind of atmosphere and having the same feeling about it. It was no different when I was at Kuala Krai that day. Everything seems to be in place and I just love it. I guess the introvert in me materialised to the fullest during such a moment.
We picked up the first two school students at Kg Pahi at 0619. I could clearly see the surau from the train and they just about finishing suboh prayers. The two boys were running a bit to catch the train. Once they were on board I walked back to our seats. Immediately, I said my prayers on the moving train at a designated place in our coach where the TC (Tickets Conductor) placed a mat.
The first two that boarded at Pahi, just like us, preferred to stand at the door rather than occupying the many empty seats. I am very sure just like us they will remember their train journey for as long as they live. That is what amazing about trains, especially this train.
I knew after Pahi we will pass through a secondary jungle and palm oil plantations before we arrived at Manek Urai. No one boarded at the station. Then, the train really travelled through the jungle and begin to climb a bit. There was somebody boarded at Kg Baru Sg Menkuang when we stopped but I was not sure how many people. The place reminded me of Cik Gu Zalief. The next station was Ulu Temiang and the intervals of these stations until we arrived at Dabong are around 12 minutes apart.
After Ulu Temiang the train negotiated a dark jungle and passed two tunnels and the historic Slow Pok Long viaduct. I was really conscious of this and really looking forward to the next halt. Still, under a dark sky, the second group of students boarded at Kg Baru Bukit Abu at 0647. There were five of them including a girl. Looking at them walking up to board, having been walking in their kampung and knowing about the place a bit, I could imagine what they have to go through every day to board the train. Kg Baru Bukit Abu is the official name. To us, it is Slow Pok Long. A memorable halt for me now. After the children boarded I remained at the door and looked outside. The morning begins to break slightly. I took three shots one of the halts from behind when the train left the station. The second one, with the built-in flash, popped out, took a shot of the dark that came out like I was shooting a mist. The third one, without the flash, I managed to capture the train moving into the darkness with its headlight showing the path. It was still very dark but it created one of the best photography effects that I love.
At 0655 we arrived at Bukit Abu. The second biggest group of students boarded here. Looking at them boarding I felt proud of them. Those in the city would be either taking the bus or chauffeured driven by their parents to school. Here they were boarding the normal train that could probably fail to come for the day to go to school. You do what you have to do for knowledge. I sincerely pray that was what in their minds.
Again the kids started to fill the borders in between the coaches instead of taking their seats inside. They were happily chatting and looking out. ‘Good morning world!!!, Education is important and this is how I am earning it.’ As if they were saying that together. Their early morning conversation created a ripple of liveliness inside the train. Everyone has something to say and someone was expected to listen. That how was school kids should behave. If you take away their environment and situation school kids would still be school kids. It was the best place and moment to connect with these guys. It was their knowledge domain area. By this time most of the other passengers were awake. Not sure whether it was because of the verbal group excitement created by the school students or it was time to wake up.
I stood by the door watching them. At times I would look outside when the jungle was really close almost touching the train. If you ever had the opportunity to be in this kind of area in the early morning you will feel, maybe, how I felt when I stood there.
The last and the biggest group boarded at Kuala Gris at 0702. To be honest I think these students and the students before them actually put these places, including Dabong, and the train on the world map. Especially Kuala Gris, apart from Dabong, could be a memorable tourist site with the train and the daily event at the station the main product. Apart from the train fans, it could be an attraction to experience for other Malaysians and tourists.
I was still standing at the door when the train approached Kuala Gris as I really wanted to capture the early morning scene of the students boarding. Students being students there were several punctual groups that were already waiting at a certain interval of points. Indicating they knew already where the train going to stop and their favourite coach to board. Once the train stopped I got down onto the small open platform to capture them. While this was going on a few more students were leisurely walking towards the train and when this group boarded I thought that was it until a bigger group started to come down from the direction of the kampung. This group consisted of a big group of boys that I assumed, maybe wrongly, the usual late comers he he he. I watched them boarded from another door close by. I thought that was it and waited for the train’s horn. Then suddenly a motorcycle carrying a young girl came down screamingly fast and the girl jumped out to board immediately. It was a three steps swift movement from her.
Seeing all these I remarked to myself ‘.....and you complain that you have to wake up early to go to school every day.’ My sarcastic answer to those in other parts of Malaysia that complaint about going to school every morning.
Again, this group preferred to stand in between the coaches. I guess primarily it was a short ride for them. I even saw one of the students even used the door hook to hang his small school bag. Nevertheless, it is a natural habitat for knowledge sharing. When we stood between these two coaches or borders endless stories will flow naturally. At most time when I was alone I love just to sit there (there is a pull-down single-seat meant for the attendant) thinking and looking out. The sound of the chugging and other noises created by the movement of the train moving through space does not bother me at all. In fact, it is a therapeutic rhythm to my wandering brain.
The day started to emerge a few minutes before we arrived at Dabong. One of the best parts of the day when I travel in the morning is witnessing life taking shape. Now looking out, life beginning to really appear in rural Kelantan. Another experience for my memory bank in the bag.
Like any other day, the train made its grand arrival at Dabong at 0718. Those students onboard were the VIPs and as planned I stood back allowing for them to disembark first. I had taken them from the platform before and today I wish to have a new perspective. It is their norm disembarking and walking to school along and on the track. Their classes started as they stepped down from the train. I watched their faces as the about to disembark and all were smiling except for one or two as if were saying.
'Hishh rasa malas nak gi sekolah hari ni. Rasa nak naik terus keretapi sampai Kuala Lipis’
When I got down I kept on shooting the students walking along and on the track to their school which was about 300 metres away from the station. Through my viewfinder, I tracked them until the school gate. I was there my self the day before doing my bits to help by introducing a couple of career choices and motivational talks. We also donated three boxes of books to their school library. Thank you to PPM, PNM and Bernama. I made a promise to come again soon.
I was not sure how long the train going to be waiting at Dabong as normally the train will cross with a train from Kuala Lipis to Tumpat. Later, I was told that the train was delayed and we were not crossing at Dabong. I knew we were early but not sure how early really. I got my answer when I saw the TC walked into the cafe next to the station, sat down and ordered breakfast. I took the opportunity to take a few more shots and later walked into the cafe myself to buy packed breakfast for Sam and I.
While at the cafe I saw other students going to the school on motorcycles. If not by train most students around the area ride their own motorcycles or being sent by their parents by any other mode of transportations to schools.
The romanticism of Dabong Station in the morning, apart from its people, is the natural surrounding that shrouded with morning fog until mid-morning. If you had ever experience pleasant foggy morning elsewhere you know what I am talking about. It was still foggy at 0727 and it was a pleasant photography session for me.
If you were at Dabong station in the morning and looking for something to eat there is another cafe across the tracks. There is a small taxi stand next to the cafe as well.
Eventually, we were called to board and we departed Dabong at 0738. I sat down at my seat to rest a bit and enjoyed the journey.
About 20 minutes after Dabong we arrived at Kemubu. It was my first time to arrive at Kemubu in the morning from the direction of Tumpat. It was a pleasant morning. Both the German guy and I jumped down out on to the platform when the train stopped. It was still a bit foggy and I just love it. Maybe I should plan a camping trip and sleep at the station ha ha ha. It was a quick stop and immediately we were crossing the foggy Kemubu bridge. It must be nice and beautiful sitting in the cockpit during the crossing. One of the bonuses for train engineers on a daily basis. Once we crossed the bridge we were back in the jungle again. As the train moved along the morning sun beginning to shine in from our left creating another memorable moment in the train. At this stage, I felt I want to be on the train every day.
Among the passengers in our coach was a full dress nurse that I assumed was on duty somewhere along the route. Apart from school teachers and policemen, nurses are the other social workers that are very prominent and always found boarding the local train. Not only I salute and respect them but there is a sense of jealousy in me as well. Simply, because they have the opportunity to be on the train frequently.
At 0802 we arrived at Sri Jaya halt. Interestingly this halt was located in Kg Sri Mahligai and later we came to another halt Sri Mahligai. So there are two halts at Kg Sri Mahligai. The halt was empty and I do not remember whether there was someone disembarked. However, there was a couple with their luggage at a shelter next to the halt. They were obviously waiting for something and not our train. Not sure whether they were waiting for the train going up north. Maybe they were waiting for a car. I really could not guess.
Sri Mahligai halt was just 4 minutes away. A few people in our coach disembarked here including the nurse. I got up from my seat and joint them at the door to watch them getting down and walk away. It was a memorable scene for me to see lives shaping the area. A son was standing to wait, I guessed, for his mum and walked towards us to welcome his mum and help with their luggage.
The kampung is beautiful in the morning with the morning sun creating a long shadow of the house nearby until the halt. A bit beyond was still fog hovering over the kampung.
After 6 minutes we left Sri Mahligai we arrived at Sri Bintang at 0810. Now these kampungs and the halts are quite close in this area. At Sri Bintang I saw the old halt with three kampung folks sat talking and waiting. They just continued talking when we pulled in. I saw two solid packed luggage and a small bundle of sayur kampung by the side. Similar to at Sri Jaya, they must be waiting for the North Bound train then, I said to my self. Obviously, they preferred to wait at the old wooden halt as the new one was empty.
Three minutes later we were at Sg Tasin halt. This was where I saw a lady walked out of her front lawn out towards the track. A pure kampung scene and I am pretty sure she was going to a shop or somebody’s place. Her dress and handbag were telling me this. Also, she must be crossing the track when we had gone. It is always wonderful to see life playing out in a kampung
We continued to move through secondary jungle with intermittent farmland and houses until we reached Jerek Baru at 0821. Jerek Baru is quite a big kampung or community. Not only there was a secondary school but also rural library. A lady disembarked here. At the halt, I saw a man with a long multipurpose jacket. The nights and mornings must be cold there.
After we left Jerek Baru I stood at the door and I purposely left the door on the other side open. The little air turbulence created by the air entering the cabin by the moving train is something that we really love. The feel with the door open is something else to me.
It was about 20 minutes of jungle, a little bit of rubber and fruit trees before we arrived at Old Bertam station at 0827. The cafe next to the old station was still striving. I could see many kampung folks having breakfast. The train stopped for a while before crossing the teh tarik coloured Sg Betis. I stood close to the glass at the door to watch as we crossed and there was a store or pump house in the middle of the bridge. Soon, I could see the police Sargent barrack house that we used to stay up on the hill overlooking the bridge. It was a short stay but profound memories we created here. Now, I could see the barrack has an Astro receiver disc on the roof. Back then we had generator-powered electricity only and a half screen from our black and white TV. What did I do at night? Reading and dreaming.
After we crossed the bridge we approached Bertam Baru station. It was exactly at 0830. When we arrived the Shuttle 50 from Kuala Lipis was already on platform 2 and we crossed. The shuttle was powered by a long hood 25111 Pulau Redang.
My recollection of Bertam Baru station is just a small shack with an open space. Now, of course, it is beyond a small shack. I remember the old new station was a small shack on the left of the path going into the 'kampung' Bertam. When I got down at the station I just walked up the path and climbed the small inclination to the police station which was about 400 metres away.
Almost an equal number of passengers embarked and disembarked. By this tine beautiful morning lights was shining the station creating a pleasant feeling. At the station were the ever-present contract workers rejuvenating the tracks along the jungle line waiting for their shuttle to pick them up to the worksite.
The train only stopped for 1 minute at the station and at 0832 departed Bertam Baru
The next 15 minutes we travelled through wooded areas mixed with rubber and palm plantations with intermittent of the local’s fruit orchards. I could only imagine of what kind of lifestyle of the locals. Not to mention how their children go to school? Their immediate town is Limau Kasturi. I would not even call it a town. Nevertheless, there is a big primary school there.
Then in succession, we arrived at 0857 Sungai Serian and 0900 Kampung Serian proper respectively. Again, these are kampung that the only significant transport is the train. After Kg Serian we arrived at Sungai Koyan. Yes, there is also Sungai Koyan in Kelantan and that we arrived at 0909. Since Limau Kasturi, Sg Galas was on our left and the track is parallel to the river until Sg Koyan. From Sg Koyan we continued to travel south with Sg Galas took a turn to the right snaking inwards. Later we met Sg Galas again nearer to Gua Musang.
We arrived at Pan Malayan halt at 0913. The name Pan Malayan really intrigued me. I really tried hard to understand why it is named so? Initially, it indicated to me that it must be an area where they have a major quarry or construction-related company nearby. Or a plantation estate. But after a little bit of desktop research over the Internet, I got nothing. Pan Malayan halt also meant we were approaching Gua Musang soon.
I was back at the door on the right side of coach when we approached the old Gua Musang Station. My main reason was to capture the station from the train floor level. I squatted really low and pushed my back against the side of the door to stabilise myself. We heard through the grapevines that KTMB will turn the old station into a museum. So I wanted to capture it with a different perspective. I let the shutter flown and got my running sequence shots. After we passed I move to the left side and did the same with me against the moving direction of the train capturing the Emrail locomotive stationed there with the signature Guan Musang hill as the backdrop. Then quickly I faced forward to capture the train approaching the new station with another signature Gua Musang mount as the backdrop.
When I took the Mail train aka main express train from Seremban going home for a school holidays, the old Gua Musang Station was one of the stations on the line that we waited for. After Kuala Lipis this was a station where you can get cheap and delicious Kelantanese food. It was like a food bazaar where all the food sellers will walk the length of the platform to sell to us via the train open windows. Some boarded the train. But I just love to buy and bargain through the window. Almost all at RM0.50 each
The train arrived at Platform 1 at 0927 and most passengers were disembarking at Gua Musang. I got out as well as I knew it will be sometime waiting for the arrival of 26 up the Express Rakyat Timuran from JB. I walked to the cafe to buy some more food as there was not any ABC on board so I had to get something to drink and munch ha ha ha. Also, to shoot a few frames of the stations and everything else around the station. Once the Shuttle 51 finished with the process of allowing passengers to disembark and new ones to board, it officially became Shuttle 53 Gua Musang to Kuala Lipis. The train pulled out and pushed, the train speaks for this is to loop, back to occupy Platform 2 to wait. So when I was done with my photography and buying food I had to climb down onto the tracks via a small makeshift manmade ladder to cross to my train. In fact, those new passengers that came later had to do the same to board.
The tickets counter there was only active for a few minutes before and until arrivals and departures of trains. Once back on board I looked around and the train was almost empty.
The Express Timuran arrived at 0939 and occupied Platform 1 next to us. The new refurbished ABC was right next to us and now I know how it feels to be on the Shuttle train looking at passengers eating and relaxing at the ABC of Express Timuran. In fact, it was the same ABC that we got to use on the 27 Down (Express Timuran from Tumpat to JB Sentra) back to Kluang that we boarded the next day. We were the first to leave Gua Musang.
At 0945 we departed and went into the plantation and jungle of Gua Musang. Mentara Baru was the last halt in the state of Kelantan that we reached at 1035 before we crossed the border into Pahang. About ten minutes after we crossed the border we arrived at Merapoh Station. There were several people boarded. I saw the Station Master at work passing and picking the tokens. I observed from afar and caught him talking to the engineer on board.
This journey really brought me close and personal with all the halts and stations in Pahang that before was mostly just passing through. The first halt after Merapoh was Teluk Gunong that we arrived at 1050 followed by Sungai Temau at 1116 and Chegar Perah that we arrived at1128. At Chegar Perah we picked up several people including a family with a big group sent off. I guessed they were going to Kuala Lipis. Chegar Perah is an area with a major Tanah Rancangan Persekutuan. In fact, one of my cousins on my mum’s sides live at the Tanah Rancangan. At 1130 we departed Chegar Perah.
Exactly 10 minutes after we left Chegar Perah we approached Aur Gading and a passenger disembarked there. Exactly after another 10 minutes leaving Aur Gading we reached Kg Berkam. Kg Berkam meant something to us mainly because Akmal and Matyu are from there. In fact, later I saw the Masjid Kg Berkam up on a hill where they used to take a family photo.
At 1158 we entered Bukit Betong that has a halt on the a bend after the train crossed a bridge.
A lady and her two small sons boarded here and due to the elevation, it was a bit steep for them to climb. It is an interesting halt smack in between two immediate curvatures. A tight space but would be a good place for photography. At this point, the train moved slowly along a tight space when if you put out your hand you can grab the scrub and small trees outside. Some really brushed the side of the train when we passed through. After about 10 minutes we arrived at one of the biggest small station along the route, Padang Tengku Station. When I was on the train in my younger days going back to Kelantan, after Kuala Lipis, this was the station that I always pop out to look at. In fact, in the old days, there would be Pasar Sari going on, on certain days near the station. Now it is being built to be one of the maintenance depots for the future DRC services for this sector. A group of young school girls disembarked here. They look like students attending and going back to their madrasah or religious school there. Most probably the Sekolah Menengah Agama Padang Tengku about 200 metres across the station.
A short while later we started to approach Kuala Lipis Station and we arrived at, both our and the train, final station at 1222. We were on time.
Changes are eminent at Kuala Lipis Station. The station is dear to me as it was my first station and train ride that I was really conscious of. If there was any before that I must have been just a baby. The new wing of the station was built north of the old station. I guess the authority is going to keep the old station intact for history sake after all. Once completed the station would have a different soul. The concrete building sure looks badly designed and uninviting. Although I could understand it could be a cost factor they could have done a bit better with the design. Knowing they will whitewash most part of the new station I feel I would not want to be at the station too long like before. No soul and character.
The old station looks shabby now and in bad shaped and needed sprucing up to create the historical impact as it is full of memories and history not only to the community, the people of Kuala Lipis, but also train travellers and fans like me.
At 1230 we walked out of the Kuala Lipis Station to rest for our next train Express Timuran down to JB at 0055
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