I am not sure how many times I had taken the Jungle Train route since I was 5 years old. On numerous occasions during my secondary school days Balik kampung to Mentakab, Rantau Panjang or Pasir Mas. Once or twice during my college days and other numerous occasions together with my train buddies either just taking the train for fun or doing CSR projects in Dabong. In all these trips I really could not really fully shared how I felt to be on the train especially going through the remote areas of Pahang and Kelantan. They were therapeutic nonetheless for me.
THE FIRST TIME
We were travelling to Pengkalqn Chepa where my late uncle was stationed as a policeman. It was the year when England won their only World Cup and I was 5 years old. Although I was still very young and not attending any school it must be a school holiday that this excursion took place. To get to Pangkalan Chepa by train then meant we had to take a bus to Kuala Lipis and then the mail train to Palekbang, Kelantan. From there he had to cross the Kelantan river by boat and subsequently bus or taxi to Pangkalan Chepa. For the life of me, I could not remember how we got to Kuala Lipis but we definitely took the opportunity to go to visit and accompanying my aunt that recently gave birth to my cousin, Mazli. The group comprised of my mum, the three of us, Along, Dilah and myself, Mak Cu, Mak Anjang, Mali and Lan. Those that I really could remember and not others that might have joined us as back then we had to have a very good reason to make a trip like that.
I remember when we arrived at the Kuala Lipis railway station we were running around exploring as kids should be. To us then the station was huge and grand with so many other passengers already on the platform waiting. There were a lot of activities at the station as its being a community hub for one of the main activities in town. Apart from the passengers like us and the staff of KTM were small mobile enterprising locals selling kueh, nasi lemak and the fruits in season. It was almost like a small pasar sari. We loved it. Of course, the locomotives were steam engines that belted a lot of thick smoke into the air creating a mystical atmosphere. Our attires then were short and shirt for the boys and blouse and mini skirts for the girls, apt for quick movement to the point of running. You can imagine how we behave then. No worries for us at the yelling and shouting from our parents were muffled by the sound of the steam engines and the activities at the station. We were just happy and being mischievous self. I was told, I was the main rascal of the lot. We got even more excited when our train arrived. This one I was not sure whether it was shunted into the station or arrived from Mentakab or Jerantut.
We boarded immediately and managed to get a coach that all of us were able to sit. These were the days when no numbers were assigned to seats. If was first come first seat basis. Well, Allah had a better plan for me and on my first day on any train, I could not just sit down. I preferred to walk around. Of course, being 5 years old I was definitely and sternly being warned not to venture out beyond our carriage. Already then I wanted to put my head out of the window which could easily be done. Jump out at every station we stop and walking around the train. Well, no train seat can tie me down too long ha ha ha. I was restless and everyone agreed I was unmanageable ha ha ha. To the point menacing than Dennis The Menace. My cousin, Mali told me I locked her inside the toilet of the train. She cried and somehow managed to free herself out. It could be the lock malfunctioned. Still, being the naughtiest of the lot I got the honour la.
At 5 years old I fell in love immediately with trains and train travel.
Our carriage was made of wood with foam cushions softening our seats. I remember ours was a standard carriage. Once inside and seated the obvious sound we heard apart from people talking was the rustic fans hanging in the of the carriage working overtime trying to make us comfortable in the tropic heat. I was actually sad and pitied the fans for being left not properly maintained. The rest were sitting properly talking but us, we could not wait for the train to move which it did after a while. What happened next was a series of activities or events that etched within my permanent memories and became part of me for the rest of my life. It starts with the distinctive whistle blew by the station master. The sound was so sweet to my ears. It was a bit piercing sound but sweet and u until then I had not heard anything like it. Being a son of a policeman I was familiar with the sound of the whistle but this one was really beautiful. The sound of the whistle ended followed by the sound of the horn pulled by the engineer from the locomotive about 3 to 4 carriages away from us. Another beautiful sound that when I was in a boarding school in Seremban in the ’70s was my early morning companion waking up. The station was at least 5 kilometres away and it was a very distinctive mellowing inviting sound for me.
Immediately after the bull horn of the train was blown the train started to move slowly and we were ecstatic. Our eyes fixed outside, hearts pounding and excited and we were really looking forward to the experience of the journey. I could not describe how happy I was observing life passes by and seeing something that we had never seen before. A totally different experience and perspective that changed my life forever. Small as I was I could remember something vividly. The smell, sound and the feeling around me. If I were to be triggered into that state now I will immediately be transported back to that moment, being the first time on the train. Even until today I cannot really describe the feeling.
Slowly, I was transported into another world and the countryside was even more interesting that most of the time took the breath of a 6-year-old soul away. The first ride made me appreciate the countryside more and the feeling of the wind blowing against my face is the benchmark of an exhilarating train ride until today.
I could not really remember the detail of the journey except for three things. Firstly, I remembered all of us were running around the carriage and constantly fighting for the right to get to sit by the window. We were scolded for putting our heads out of the window. But once in a while, we could not resist the temptation. Secondly, when the train passing the many tunnels along the route with the window wide open our faces blacken because of the soot from the smoke of the steam engine. After passing every tunnel we laughed at each other. Thirdly was the food sellers on and off the train at every station we stopped. Our course we asked our mum to buy everything but, of course, we got only a few ha ha ha. I, for one, did not say what I wanted but ended up always wanting what the others were having. If I did not get it nicely I just took it away from them. Finally, our arrival at Palekbang. We were bundled out and our Pak Anjang was at the station waiting for us. At the time Palekbang was the main station to Kota Baru and to go to Kota Baru we had to cross the Kelantan river by boat. So, we were additionally excited with our first boat ride. Once a crossed we were taken to a car that took us to Pangkalan Chepa where my Uncle was stationed then. So at the age of 5 years old, I have already been to Pangkalan Chepa. In fact, if I am not mistaken one evening my cousins took us walking on white sand across a small field. Thinking about it now, it could be the beach nearby.
That first time on the train was really special to me and I remember it to this day. The funny thing is I could not remember the train ride going back home to Kuala Lipis and eventually by car to Raub. I must have been tied down to my seat by my mum. Below was the kind of train that we boarded in 1996.
JNK Jungle Train Train to Wakaf Bahru and Back, Jan 11-13, 2019
We drove to the Seremban bus terminal at 8 pm and waited for the rest to join us. The first to join us were Isma, Zaidani and his son. At around 9.15 pm the rest showed up after walking from Seremban train station. The plan was for us to board a MyBas to Bahau and catch our jungle train at Bahau. Because of the new scheduling, delays and whatnot, the train was supposed to arrive at Bahau at 2.04 am.
We decided to board the 10 pm bus to Bahau. I slept through most of the journey and we arrived at Bahau at 11.20 pm. We thought of killing time by eating at the Mamak place next to the Petronas gas station but the place was closed. Dejected we walked towards the station.
Upon arriving at the station we did our own thing. However, knowing how the guys react to the empty stomach a group walked into town to explore. True enough a few minutes later we received a WA message that there was a restaurant opened for business. We made a beeline towards the restaurant. Thus, we parked ourselves eating and talking until close to 1 am.
The train came at 2.17 am and we crashed into our sleeper T8, beds 10 and 12. I went straight to sleep. The rocking and rolling created by the train helped a lot. Some people would hate it but to us, it is the best lullaby. Actually, it is more than just a lullaby. To be in your own space confined by the curtain and the outside world with the big glass showing the world outside moving along at a constant speed. It is our Third Place in this world. I had spent sitting in this closed world writing one of my best proses.
Earlier, I was thinking of getting down at Mentakab for the crossing or at least to join the guys meeting Pok Nik but I slept through Mentakab. I only woke up at 6 am when the trusted phone alarm blasted near my left ear. I woke Sam up but told her that I will go to clean up first. I brushed my teeth but decided to skip my morning bath. I clean up the best I can and took ablution. Back at my bed, I waited until Sam was back from the toilet before I said my Suboh.
I checked my phone for important messages and dozed off again.
With the Express Timuran new timing we had the opportunity to see more of Pahang in morning daylight and at 6.45 am we arrived at Jerantut station. But, I dozed off again.
I woke up again when the train was slowly approaching Kerambit. A streak of daylight beginning to appear over the river that was parallel to the movement of the train. I knew we would be approaching Kula Lipis in few minutes. Slightly after 8 am we arrived at Kuala Lipis. I was actually awakened by the conductor coming along with the announcement to alert the passengers. Especially to those still in slumber like me. It has been a while I travel by train in full daylight through Kuala Lipis and the route before Padang Tengku. All the memories flashed by me and the thought of going down on the platform was only logical. However, my subconscious mind was saying, no point as there were a lot of changes I do not like already taking place at the station. I stayed inside to play along. For a while, my eyes focused outside soaking in the cool beautiful morning. My mind and my thoughts were somewhere beautiful that I could not really explain. It was like you were walking in a jungle with the morning sun breaking through the trees and leaves. As you walk you could not help yourself but touch everything that you see as you need to be part of the world you are seeing. You pass the small river, beautiful creatures and the glory of all the flora and fauna. Even if I wrote is as such I just could not explain exactly how I felt when I was ‘looking out’ of the window.
Padang Tengku came into view at 8.32 am after Kuala Lipis. The first time I experience Padang Tengku it was a very happening station. Well, most of the train stations in the 60s and early 70s were as such but Padang Tengku was one of the grander of the lots. Again smells, sounds and colours that I really miss now. Riding this train now and looking out I just could not connect unless I reminisce the old. By that time the sun was really out, rising the day’s temperature to make me glad to be in an air-conditioned train. It was time for our walk to the ABC to ngeteh
At 9.17 am all of us gathered at the ABC occupying half of the cafe. We ordered our caffeine and food and start to make the cafe ours. Getting familiar with us the train crew just let us be. At that time we were not really eating much just having coffee to talk. Our real food stop was Gua Musang. Small stations passed along without much importance to us except a few moments of reference by somebody about something we were talking or joking about at the time. When we arrived at Merapoh everyone’s sense of awareness perked up. As when we departed Merapoh the train will be truly travelling through the jungle of Pahang and Kelantan. The reason for the nickname of the train that is famous worldwide - The Jungle Train.
We sat chatting at the ABC until we arrived at Gua Musang station at 10.22 am. The station is actually a new station built about 800 metres away from the old one. In fact, one could see the old station from the new one. The reason they moved the new station to the new location is beyond me. My only guess is because of logistic reasons. The good thing about this is that KTMB for once keeps the old station intact due to a historical reason.
All of us did not need any prompting and got out onto the platform and rushed towards the cafe of the station that sells authentic Kelantanese staples such as Nasi Belauk, Nasi Dagang and Nasi Kerabu. Another round of breakfast for all of us. Since we will be crossing within the shuttle from Tumpat our train sat longer on the platform waiting. Some of the guys chose to eat their food at the station’s cafe. 20 minutes later the whistle was blown and off we went into the deep jungle of Kelantan that includes going through 8 tunnels and as many viaducts that were built in the 50s and 60s.
At 11.38 am after a few hours watching the train trekking the jungle we crossed the Kemubu Bridge and we knew we were closer to the station we had all love to get down or maybe spend a night there. Right on schedule at 11.50 am the train stopped at Dabong. Dabong is by now synonymous with us from JNK. Up until then, we had done two CSR activities already there. We just loved the place.
Apart from the Slow Pok Long viaducts and tunnels that we passed a few hours after Dabong we were really waiting to cross the Guelimard Bridge. The longest train bridge in Malaysia just before we arrived at Tanah Merah Station. I have been on the ground level of the bridge twice and it is still inspiring and exhilarating to cross as I could clearly imagine seeing the train crossing the bridge from the edge of the river down below. It would be even more exciting if the bridge has no siding like train bridges and viaducts in Indonesia.
Tanah Merah arrived after we crossed Guillemard Bridge and after that Pasir Mas. At 2.13 pm the train halted at Wakaf Baru and all of us scrambled out. I use scrambled because that was what all of us did as we had only 2 hours in KB as by 4.30 pm we had to be back at the station to freshen up and board our train Express Rakyat Timuran 27 back to Bahau at 6.20 pm. I already booked a Grab car when the train approached Wakaf Baru station and only had to wait a short while before the car arrived. Our destination was EON KB for a short date with our Cucu, Kak Long Najwa.
Kak Long Najwa arrived a few minutes after us and we adjourned to Secret Recipe for brunch. We chatted and relaxed our tired body there for an hour before Najwa had to leave. We thought we would be cleaning up at the shopping mall but due to time constraints and to avoid the evening traffics we decided to leave for the station early and do our business at the station. I booked a Grab car again and we were back at the station at 4.50 pm.
At the station, we picked a spot to put our things and took turns cleaning ourselves. The station’s restroom, although not that clean, was acceptable for what we needed. We are used to it already and no big deal for us. I know, apart from my school buddies, some of my friends would not even dare to think of doing it ha ha ha. Once we cleaned ourselves we took turn to say our prayers at the Surau. By this time the rest of the gang started to arrive at the station and joined us at the restroom. Everyone is fully prepared to make life comfortable being a train traveller, our DNA.
Some of us were also having drinks at the station cafe that I assumed was only busy when there were trains coming and going at the station. In this case in point, there will be two arrivals and departures. A local shuttle train from Kuala Lipis to Tumpat and our train 27 Express Rakyat Timuran form Tumpat to JB. The two were crossing at Wakaf Baru at around 6.20 pm.
The shuttle arrived first and all of us scrambled with our camera onto the main platform to capture the moment and the train of course. The shuttle came into Platform 1 and the passengers started to disembark. I could not remember whether there were those boarding the train. As soon as the intended passengers disembarked the train pushed back and came in again to waiting at Platform 2 indicating to us the imminent arrival of our train from Tumpat. Indeed our train, Train 27, arrived at 6.28 pm. We were ready with our camera and luggage to welcome our train. Once the train stopped we climbed in looking for our bed for the night. Promptly at 6.30 pm, we departed Wakaf Baru.
We were still chatty and vibrant when the train moved as in our minds in another 15 minutes Zul will be waiting for us at the Pasir Mas station with our burgers. When we were there almost everyone jumps out on the platform to meet Zul. Of course, it was a short meet but meaningful for all of us. Once the train left the station we adjourned to the ABC and devoured our burgers. The burgers were gone in a minute down our intestines. We were really at it when we passed Guillemard Bridge at 7.22 pm, the blue hours. I quickly captured the scene outside.
The burgers took a bit of time to settle in our stomachs and that was when we were still able to be fully awake and laugh at every story and joke. But an hour or so later it hit me. I guess with the burger settled in and the adrenaline simmered down most of us became very tired and sleepy. Slowly we walked back to our ‘rock and roll’ hotel. After we said our prayers we were soundly asleep and it was a nice sound deep sleep for me until my biology clock woke me up at 6.28 am. I checked our position and it was Mengkuang and we were approaching Kemayan Station. After that, I just sat sitting in my bed looking outside for the new day to break out. Bahau, our last station would arrive soon. It was 7.20 am and the expected ETA was in 7 minutes.
Indeed at 7.27 am we disembarked at Bahau and as usual l but lingered at the station until the train left for JB. I have already cleaned myself on the train the others including Sam decided to do a proper job using the station’s restroom and I waited at the waiting area for everyone. At 7.41 am with everyone neat again and with a train travel fatigue gone walked skirting the station towards Bahau bus station to catch our bus back to Seremban. I wondered whether there was ever train fatigue for us.
As I walked I captured the station and the track from the side and watched the rest walked ahead. I longed to be on the train again. I wished both Sam and I were still on the train travelling towards JB. Blessed to be on the train again but not long enough I felt. Tiredness was gone, still, I would rather continue my sleep on the rocking bed of the Express Rakyat Timuran than a seat on a bus to Seremban.
I was rocked out of my reverie when we finally arrived at the bus station. Proper breakfast was the order of the day and there were two warungs opened at the Medan Selara on our right. We walked in and chose one where there was a long table that could fit all of us. It was 8.33 am and as usual we bunter with the Mak Cik owner of the place to order our breakfast. Some of us cornered her around the server where her hot fresh food was presented. Assured by their look that brought confidence of a good tasted food the guys ordered quickly. One thing I am very sure of us is that we, the train hunters and travellers, are continuously hungry lots that our food intake is as fast as the train travels.
At 8.42 am we were on board an express bus to Seremban. This happened after Hassin enquired and concluded a deal with the provider at the station. Agreed it was the best decision for all of us as soon as the bus departed the station I dozed off and stay so until we arrived and disembarked at 10.14 am at Seremban Station.
Seremban station is forever in my heart with special memories and stories told many times before and still untold for public reading. While waiting for our Komuter train we business ourselves capturing the scene especially the YDMs docked at the depot next to the station. We had to shoot them from them cross-bridge.
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