Express Rakyat 1976-2016: The Last Hurrah May 8 2016

In 1976 I was in form three at one of the country’s premier boarding schools trying to figure out my life. I was not a loss but more of a wandering soul looking for a place in the vast universe. One of the joys of my life was travelling home by train during our school term breaks.  Train means Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad (KTMB) and its slow and long journey. Being on it were both an adventure and therapy to the then my tiny body. Standing at the opened door between the carriages with cool night breeze blowing against my face is something still fresh in my consciousness. Never a boring moment for us and always something to do. Either walk through the whole length of the train a couple of times, chatting at the door, smoking our lungs out or even, when we were brave enough, throwing pick up lines in the hope one of them would catch the chicks from down south. These mostly on the East Coast trains. 

The year 1976 was also the year KTMB introduced the Express Rakyat to Malaysians. Nov 1, 1976, to be exact. As the name implies it started a daily run with only Economy Class coaches. A service for the rakyat on the West Coast line. Eventually, it was improved with new carriages and from plying between JB and Bukit Mertajam to Singapore and Butterworth. The express was even made more famous by M. Nasir and his Kembara group. Everyone can just sing along or sway away with the smooth melody. Here is the song

Sadly today, May 8, 2016, although the song still actively fill the airwave, Express Rakyat is going for its last run as KTMB has decided it is a problem for them. A sad day for me and a sad day for all train lovers in Malaysia. I am at Butterworth station now waiting to board. Die-hard train lovers decided to board to accompany this last Express Rakyat, popularly known as 1 Down among train communities, for its last hurrah down to JB Sentral. It was a month of planning to do it. Some of us, including my family and I, decided to board all the way from Butterworth while another large JNK (Jom Naik Keretapi) group to board at KL Sentral.

But this excursion is not without its own challenges. Yesterday an ETS  had crashed onto the tail of an Express Rakyat, 1 Down, going down to JB at Kuala Kubu. It was a small but serious mishap that rendered the line impassable. KTMB worked very hard to restore the service but the failure of KTMB in crisis management and public relation created a high level of anxiety among us. I was affected badly to the extent I exploded in our WhatsApp group. On reflection, I believe I did the right thing. It is time for someone to tell KTMB in the face. Not just as a customer but as a train lover who wants to see a successful train service in Malaysia.

We arrived at the Butterworth station at 4am as I did not want to risk it. If the Express Rakyat was cancelled we would have taken the first ETS, 5 am, out back to KL. The counter duly opened at 4.30am and I was their first customer. I asked the obvious question and the lady at the counter walked into her office to inquire from her supervisor. She was in there for quite sometimes that heighten my anxiety. I was resolved whatever the outcome to stay calm and accept it as the will of Allah. She came out and mentioned as she moved to sit down that the service was back to normal. which meant our Sayonara Express Rakyat was on. She further elaborated that our train is on the way to Butterworth.  You cannot imagine how happy I was of the news. The thought of Ameer flew into my mind. I duly announced it to the whole world. I was very happy for Ameer Danial who risked taking a bus from KL early in the morning to be at Butterworth before departure. 

Butterworth Station at 4 am

Because we were early we parked ourselves in the surau. I stayed there until I said my Suboh at 6am. When I came out there was a message in our group that Ameer was already at the station. The waiting lounge started to get busy at 6 am as the next train was the 6.30am ETS to KL Sentral. Butterworth station is quite a happening station nowadays.

I told my family that I was going down for breakfast at the bus station. Kak Cik decided to follow me. I also left a message for Ameer and down at the lift I heard Ameer called out my name. The three of us walked to the warung at the bus terminal. Then only we knew our train was late by an hour. 

While we were eating Loncan Apiz and Zul arrived to join us. We were a happy bunch of train hunter, spotter, traveller and lover smiling having breakfast as the trip was going to be a reality. Zul updated us that the Express Rakyat would be delayed by an hour at that point of time. Faisal Azwan Abdul Rahim earlier reported that he crossed our train at Tapah Road at 0525 on his way down on ETS to KL Sentral. In this connected world, we have live information at our fingertips. The power of communities of practice (CoPs). How KTMB cannot be like us, connected to us and leverage all the train fan clubs and current technologies is beyond me. 

At around 7.15 am we walked back to the station to get further information on our train. By now the station was really a buzz with commuters waiting for their rides either for Komuters to Padang Besar or Kemunting. I saw an EMU on the platform. I was informed this EMU is being used for Komuter service to Padang Besar. Imagine the crowd. Zul told me on its busier days additional EMU was commissioned to ferry commuters to Padang Besar. The same sardine can that I was used to in the early 2000s. I sincerely hope it is doing justice to commuters up in the north

Looking around I could not help wondering how many of them were like us waiting for the last Express Rakyat. Like everywhere now most commuters waiting with their eyes glued to their phone screen. Gadget nation we are now. There was also a group of Indian tourists.

Gadget Nation

Passengers in the departure hall

It was a painful wait for l of us, especially me. The digital message kept on posting delays for our train form just delay to 100 minutes delay and so on. Every now and then Zul will come out of his office to inform us of the status of our train. He told us our train stopped at Bukit Tengah to be shunted with additional carriages. Later when we were already on the train we got new information that our train was actually already at Bukit Tengah at 8.00am. It took them more than an hour to fit the train with additional carriages because our train was the same Express Rakyat that was involved in the accident the day before. It ran up with only 5 carriages.

Now we definitely were sure that our farewell ride was on and just a matter of waiting. We just could not sit still with the anticipation. Tak sabor-sabor

I was standing with Zul at the waiting area talking when we heard a familiar engine car came in. Zul rushed to the entrance and nodded to me. Finally! I sent a message to the others who were getting a drink at the warung. Immediately I called up my family and went down first.

With my adrenaline rushing, I quicken my pace towards our coach, R2. I saw Zul was working hard pulling and putting back the coach number in place. Apparently, they were wrongly numbered. Once inside our coach, I just dumped my luggage and rushed out to take photos. In fact, all the nine of us, including my daughters and two train lovers that I have not met before and a KKK club member who was going to be onboard until Parit Buntar, were busy running to the front to capture images of the locomotive and the crew. Zul had his camera setup o tripod for a group photo already. We quickly posted and the shoot was done quickly. 

Raja Mahadi, the loco or engine car, had the honour to pull the last 1 Down to JB Sentral

24107 Raja Mahadi

With mixed emotion, we frantically captured what we can. I knew for a fact major parts of the capturing actually happened as our own mental images. If we can print that it would be definitely a wonderful slide show or movie.  

At 10.20am the whistle was blown and 1 Down slowly inching out of Butterworth station. Our old memories also flew by leaving the station. Sinking slowly into my realisation the fact that it was the last diesel train day ride out of Butterworth. ‘No more after this’, I said to myself. 

Express Rakyat 1 Down leaving Butterworth for the last time

The funny thing though out of my sadness there was a little be of joy to be on the train again. Ironic but true. Modernisation is real and healthy as indeed we must progress, still, KTMB needs to keep the old train running for the sake of train fans like me as much as for the rakyat. The best commercial reason to do it is to have an Express Rakyat Tourist Train once a week at least in the future. Really, our neighbour Thailand has proven it to be viable. Even, Indonesia is ahead of us on this one.  

After we left Butterworth the train moved confidently as scheduled making stops at designated stations  such as,

Bukit Mertajam at 10.30 am, 

Simpang Ampat at 10.42 am, 

Nibong Tebal at 10.50 am, 

Parit Buntar at 10.54 am,

Bagan Serai at 11.03 am,

Bukit Merah Lake at 11.16 am

Kemunting at 11.33 am

Taiping at 11.37 am

Padang Rengas at 11.56 am,

Kuala Kangsar at 12.02 pm,

Tasek at 12.35 pm,

Ipoh at 12.42 pm,

Kampar at 1.15 pm,

Tapah Road at 1.25 pm,

Slim River at 2.02

Tg Malim at 2.41 

All these were reported live via our WA group to update those who did not have the opportunity to join us and those that were waiting and would be embarking at KL Sentral.

Between Bagan Serai and Taiping and at Bukit Merah Lake are the stretches best for photography. I captured what I can to accompany my feelings with the train travelling at an average speed of 100 km/h. A speed that I wanted to slow down but as the service, I was not able to do. All along the journey taking photos was secondary to me. I just sat at my seat really toying with my feelings enjoying the last ride. At times searching deep for good memories of this train. It sunk but still deep inside it was still unbelievable to me that it was the end. We will have the memories, photos and the song to remember it now.

When we arrived at KL Sentral we straight away disembarked to move to coach 4. Everyone supposed to be joining at KL Sentral were already at the platform taking photos and enjoying themselves. A bit of impromptu ceremony also going on, on the platform. It was hard to tell whether they were happy or sad. Maybe happy to see all their friends join on the last ride and deep down very sad.

The others boarded at KL Sentral

The train eventually departed KL Sentral into rainy Kuala Lumpur as if commemorating the sad day. When train’s fn travelling on the train they do not actually sit ha ha ha. They will move around the train and most of the time park themselves at the door. Because of our numbers we were actually at every door. It is a waste paying for a seat for us.

Gemas is another station that all train fans in Malaysian can identify with. Naturally, when we got to Gemas all of us poured on the platform. It was at this station also the Nasi Ayam Gemas that we ordered was delivered. It was getting dark already when we arrived at Gemas.

Our dinner being delivered at Gemas

The plan was for us to ride the Express Rakyat down to JB Sentral and from there to board Express Sutera back to KL Sentral. As our train was already late by two hours we were not going to make it to board the Express Sutera at JB Sentral. We decided to disembark at Kluang and board the Sutera there. However, we arrived at Kluang at around 9.38 pm, still early and enough time to go further up. After a second consultation of the train nobles, we decided to disembark at Kulai instead.

The consultation of train nobles

We arrived at Kulai at around 10.45 pm and Express Sutera will be there at 11.20pm so we had few minutes to kill. Once disembarked some us went to search for the surau to pray first, a group made a beeline towards the famous Nasi Lemak Wak Kentut which was just at the entrance of the station, and another group setting up their tripods to shoot the station at night. I decided to pray first and check out the rest of the place.

Kulai Station

The place is so unique and nostalgic to me. I so missed the old stations both on the east coast and northern lines.

I would say Kulai station received its biggest passengers ever in the year. We were everywhere especially on the tracks imprinting the place with our cameras. The number of cameras that night there was a sight to behold ha ha ha

It was just like any small country train station you can experience in other countries. Sadly they are not going to keep the old structure. In fact, the whole station will have a new look in the near future,

Ironically we were happy at Kulai station and maybe some did not register the fact that we had just disembarked from the last Express Rakyat. Our last right on board of the good old Express Rakyat. I was sad, really, really sad.

The Express Sutera arrived at 11.35pm

Boarding Express Sutera 

Once aboard Sam and I had our dinner of Nasi Ayam Gemas and just after bedtime for us as we were already tired after a long journey from Butterworth

I am not sure whether it was we were all tired, sleepy or sad but the rest of the journey back to KL Sentral was really quiet.

Close to 7 am we approached KL Sentral and disembarked. Still a lot of chatting among us but we were sad for sure as we were saying goodbye to even the Express Sutera soon. There would be another Express Rakyat and Sutera. Gone forever.

With that off, we went to board our train back to Bangi.

All the photos that I capture are HERE and HERE

Exploring the Luboks 2: The Train Journey, Bangi-KLS-Kluang-Ipoh-Pdg Besar-Arau-KLS-Bangi, Nov 7-9, 2015

Nov 6, 2015, Friday, KL Sentral (1310 delayed to 1420) - Kluang (late arrival 1920)

The urge to take another long train trip beckoned, became stronger each passing day ever since the launches of several ETS routes by KTMB. It is possible now to go down south and then up north in a single day while making a stopover at major towns along the route. Couple with so many writing projects and other business idea incubation I decided Deepavali weekend as one of the opportunities that I should take. 

I was too late to book my planned excursion. Slightly less than a month the route on the day that I wanted was partly fully booked. I wanted to do KL Sentral - Kluang, Kluang -JB, JB - Padang Besar and Padang Besar - KL Sentral in four days or less. I could get seats for the first journey but there were no bunk sleepers available from JB to Padang Besar. The comfort of my wife made it not suitable. I played on several variations with the booking systems. Firstly if I can take the shuttle from JB to Gemas and take the new ETS Gemas - Padang Besar. Unfortunately, the schedule for Gemas Padang Besar ETS was not accommodative to my plan. I played on variations after variations until I had to sacrifice JB and settled for KL Sentral - Kluang, Kluang - Ipoh, Ipoh - Padang Besar and Arau - KL Sentral. From Kluang to Ipoh will be on Express Sutera that arrives at Ipoh at 1055 and to board the KL Sentral - Padang Besar ETS at Ipoh at 1144. I immediately made the booking and my wife and I set for another adventure. Using agoda.com I also made my hotel bookings a night in Kluang and another in Kangar.

The journey started with both of us taking the Komuter train from Bangi to KL Sentral. We were at Bangi station at 10.50am and half an hour later we boarded. A non-event except that as usual, my dear wife made friend with two college girls that sat near us going home for the long weekend break. When we arrived at the KL Sentral at 12pm the first thing that came on my mind was mi tarik that I love so much. We had lunch there. 

We scheduled to board at 1.15pm and immediately after lunch we rushed to Gate B on the second floor of the KL Sentral complex. KTMB or rather the Management of KTMB decided to streamline all the arrivals and departures at one gate. Thus, all departures since October were relocated to Gate B. Whereas all the arrivals at Gate A. 

There were already a lot of passengers waiting at Gate B. No doubt some of them were taking the ETS to Ipoh that was supposed to depart before us. It seems their train was already late and since our departure is dependence on the arrival of their train from Ipoh I knew straight away than our’s would not be on schedule. In fact, a few minutes later an announcement came on air to deliver the verdict. The ETS from Ipoh will only arrive at 1.50 pm followed by our Express Rakyat at 2pm. Another long wait for us thanks to KTMB’s Ontime Everytime tagline ha ha ha

At 2.21 pm we were called to board. Since we were late the Gate was packed with passengers already and this is what I failed to understand. Yes, the train was late. Yes, all tickets were numbered. Yes, the train attendants Wii ensure everyone to board before departing. But yet people were rushing to the train like there were not going to have their seats. Unbelievably Malaysian. 

The few times we boarded Express Rakyat I unknowingly always chose the old second class superior seats. This time luckily my choice hit the new ones. It was our first time on this newly refurbished coach. The best thing about this is that there was a working power point socket put in place on the wall of each of the pair seats. No worry about running out of power for my gadgets. 

As a matter of routine for me as soon as I had my wife seated comfortably and our luggage tucked properly I walked out on the platform to shoot a few frames before we departed. By now I have taken a few that seems to be identical. Trust me there are not. They may look the same to others but to me, they were totally new batch and new perspective in a different time frame and zone. 

The journey south is all too familiar for me so I spent the earlier part of the journey sitting and dozing in my seat. I woke up as we were approaching Sg Gadut and I felt like I had been sleeping for 5 hours. Ha ha ha maybe the train was too slow. I sat a bit and then asked my wife whether she wanted to join me to lepak at the buffet car for a drink. 

We walked to the back about two coaches away and was at the buffet car soon enough. I checked my phone for the time and it was  4.27 pm. As we sat down Tampin/Pulau Sebang Station came into our view. We ordered our drinks and for a change, a lady was at the counter. Yes, it was rare for the cafe operator to have ladies. 

We sat drinking and talking. Small talk nothing serious just enjoying ourselves. After a while I took out my laptop to start writing, just writing a bit here and there nothing stuck in my mind to write longer and serious. My wife started to check her phone and she saw I was writing she told me she would like to go back to our seats. I stayed back a bit as I thought I might get the flow to continue to write. Actually, I just managed a bit of writing but more thinking and enjoying the scenery outside. The train, although delayed by at least half an hour, was moving at a normal pace which I like. I felt so contented and blessed. Again, I really cannot explain to someone how I feel when I am on the train. I myself really cannot pin it down. So, I guess just enough for me to write my experience down to at least try to explain it even to myself. 

I sat at the buffet car longer as I needed to be. When I realised I was almost alone there I decided to go back to my seat. Once I was at my seat I put down my bag and told my wife to take note. My wife knew already after years of on the train she would just let me be me. I walked towards the door at the back of our coach and stood there in between of the two coaches next to the restroom. looking outside. When I was younger I would fire up my cigarette ha ha ha. At the door there was a pull-down seat for the attendant to sit, I took over the place as I knew the attendant would not be sitting there. Furthermore, that was not the first time I did that. It was almost my own place whenever I am on the train. One of the places that I could be myself and I can just sit there thinking. My thoughts just ran wild thinking about everything. This included my plan to retire early. I smile thinking about what I would be doing a lot more when I am retired.

Outside the scenery changed from a bit of wetland to palm plantation indicating we soon would be in central Johor. We passed Segamat when I was at the buffet car. The first station in central Johor by train would be Labis. I knew we would arrive at Labis because the forest and plantation out was denser. If you look at the map you would know why, as Labis and the next town Bekok are located next to the Taman Negara Johor Endau Rompin. It was also getting darker a bit outside. We would be late arriving at Kluang for sure. The train moves slowly manoeuvring through the terrain going up and down a bit. And down we entered Labis. Being a shuttle train there were passengers disembarked and boarded at a small station like Labis.

The next station was Bekok and it was the same as Labis. While looking out of the windows I was more convinced that I should do a road tour of these small stations in Johor soon. It was already 1 hour off schedule when we arrived at Paloh followed by Chamek

In fact, we arrived at Kluang Station at 7.27 pm. If on schedule we should arrive at 6.30 pm.

Once we disembarked we straight away walked out of the station. Strategically I have chosen the Imperial Hotel as it is a decent hotel that is close to the station. Somehow when we walked there guided by the map in my handphone and my old brain I still missed it right under my nose. We had to circle the place only when I saw the signage of the hotel at the top. We checked in, said our prayers and went out for dinner somewhere near the Kluang Parade. It was our first time walking in Kluang but since it is at night we limited our walk around the hotel and close by. Luckily we did that as after a bit we felt really tired and walked back to the hotel.