Slow Pok Long is the name of a place in rural Kelantan. Pok Long is obviously a name of a person, normally in Kelantanese dialect, Pok means Pak (Bapak or Father) or Pak Cik (Uncle). Whereas Long is a common name or title for the eldest child in a family such as Along. So Pok Long means an Uncle who is the eldest child in his family. So what about Slow?
Kelantanese when they learn a new English word will take it seriously and not only use it but tune it to their own colloquial usage. So spoken it became Selow. But why Slow Pok Long. The area is in the state of Kuala Krai and in the old days only easily accessible by train. The place is not only secluded but in high terrain where the train track was built to pass by the hills, through thick jungle and over two hills that require a long viaduct to be built. In the 2014 big flood in Kelantan, Slow Pok Long became popular because a set of train was driven here to be kept safe from the flood. Ok, whenever a train is driven in an area like this there will be a few safety guidelines that the train engineer needs to adhere and one of a must do’s is to drive the train at an almost crawling pace so it became very slow. Thus the word Slow was added to the name and became Slow Pok Long. There are other places named in such a way. One such place is Kg Slow Machang. Officially though Slow Pok Long is Kg Baru Bukit Abu.
So why is this trip to Slow Pok Long for us?
If you have taken a train in the east coastline between Kuala Lipis to Tumpat or even Gua Musang to Tumpat after Gua Musang you will be travelling within thick jungle through bridges, viaducts and tunnels The most secluded and imposing viaduct is the one at Slow Pok Long. It is even mysterious and inviting if you were passing it in the very early morning when the fog would give it the look and feel of a place where you must experience. A dichotomy of being eerie and comforting at the same time. There are also two tunnels immediately one after another close to the viaduct. Our main objective was to capture the viaduct in its glory in the early morning and to capture it with a train passing through. The bonus for us would be experiencing the rural kampung and the fruits in season, especially durian, there. I got more than I bargained for.
Day 1, Aug 12 (Friday)
Our journey started at the Terminal Bersepadu Selatan (TBS) bus terminal. As usual, I was very early than the others as I arrived way before maghrib. I left Bangi at around 5.18 pm and arrived at TBS 3 minutes to 6 pm. I took the opportunity to shoot the trains as TBS is not only where the Klang Valley main express bus terminal but also a connecting hub for train services - KTMB Komuter, LRT and KLIA Rail Link. I stood on the bridge waiting for the trains and because of its frequency, the LRT came into view first and more frequent. Then, the ERLs came in succession prompting my finger pressing the shutter release button continuously. Actually, at times without taking my eyes off the viewfinder I turned left and right shooting at will. Alternating my shots between the LRT, Komuter and ERL. I did this until I sensed people were watching me and I stopped to continue to walk inside the TBS.
The others started to show up just before maghrib. As usual, we lepak at the mamak restaurant for our dinner and waiting area. There were 6 of us that would be boarding the bus at BTS. Besides myself, they were Hassin, Bazree, Syaiful, Burhan, and Zaidani. According to plan Ameer and Cik Gu Zalief would be boarding the same shuttle that we would be taking at Pasir Mas and Sg Mengkuang respectively.
By 9 pm all of us done with our solat and dinner. We waited patiently for our boarding call. In the end, we were not patient enough to wait for the call at 9.31pm we walked down to the boarding area to wait.
We did not have to wait that long as at 9.54 pm we boarded our eMutiara double-decker express bus and we departed 5 minutes after. We were seated in the first three rows of the top deck. As I was anticipating lack of sleep and the need to have a good rest before our expedition I planned to sleep throughout the bus journey. Which I did and I only woke up when the bus stopped at Gua Musang rest area.
Day 2, Aug 13 (Saturday)
I was awakened at 2.29am when the bus parked at the Gua Musang rest area. I went down like the rest not so much to eat or drink but to ease bladder and stretch my legs after sleeping in a sitting position for a few hours. It was a windy early morning in Gua Musang and not as cold as I had anticipated.
After we left the rest area I fell asleep again and I felt I was not sleeping for long when Hassin woke us up saying we will disembark soon. Soon the bust pulled over somewhere and we disembarked at a still air very early morning of Kuala Krai. I looked at my handphone and the watch indicated 4.30 am. Still trying to adjust to the darkness and the street light I walked behind the rest. I was expecting a short walk and primed myself by enjoying the early morning quiet walk in the backyard of Kuala Krai alone at the back. The occasional barking of the dogs seemed very near as we walked deeper and further towards, I presumed, the station. As we were walking I kept on wondering where the hell were we ha ha ha. Actually, we walked slightly more than 30 minutes, slightly more than 1 km, when we reached an area where the guys in front of me were excited and started taking shots at something. When I got close only I could make sense of where we were. We were at the dockyard or depot of Kuala Krai train station and we had approached the station from the opposite direction. Opposite the station that until then I only observed either for the waiting train or the platform of the station.
We were kids with our toys again. If you had seen us you would be shaking your head in disbelieve. We actually at the depot for about half an hour playing around and taking photos. Without my tripod, I had placed my camera where ever stable enough to capture using BULB setting.
The dark station looked serene and peaceful to me from the depot as if a tired body being left to rest. The powerful effect was due to the only two lights being left switched on at the main lobby of the station. The station has been one of the major stations in the east coastline, just like any other major stations, making it one of the main features of the town. Times has changed this perspective a bit and slowly the stations on the line becoming less important and not attractive anymore to the younger generation. I could not blame them as most stations and train services are not part of their life anymore. It is a fact going from point A to B there are better and faster alternatives. That was why when I looked at the station in the still of the early morning I could not prevent from having the mixed feeling. Joyed being there to witness something that I had not had experience before as well as reliving those that I had. Sad, as I knew then it was not going to last long. History has witnessed development changes everything that we used to have. I hate to admit that whatever had happened in the west will happen again in the east.
Slowly we crossed the tracks to climb up to the platform. It was almost 5 am already then. We automatically walked the entire length of the station. That’s what train fans will do at most stations. Especially when the station is dark and quiet. We captured the experience both digitally and within our human memory. Really, except for the early morning sound, the station was very quiet. We found out everything is locked including both the surau and restrooms. A painful moment for us as we badly needed to use the restrooms ha ha ha. We just sat or stand while toying with our feelings.
While we were waiting we heard noises of someone coming to the station and a few minutes later some of the lights were switched on. The ticket counter was opened at 5.30 am but we did not bother to buy our tickets yet, instead, we rushed to the restroom ha ha ha. We bought our tickets and we were among the few doing that early morning. Including us, not more than 10 people catching the train at Kuala Krai. A few minutes after the azan was heard and at the same time, we knew our train will approach the station soon. At 5.47 am we were told our train was waiting for the green light to approach the station. I had decided to say my prayer on the train as I knew I would not be concentrating on the prayer being anxious with the train arriving. However, 4 of us decided to say our Suboh at the surau. In the middle of it at 5.57 am the train, Tumpat - Kuala Lipis Shuttle aka Keretapi Budak Sekolah, approached the station. I am not sure whether those praying kusyuk or not ha ha ha.
Once onboard suddenly all of us were knocked out by the rocking and rolling. After some of us, including myself, said our Suboh on the train we bonked out. It was like rest and relaxation session in the middle of the battle. Some making two seats as beds and others slumbered sitting down. Ameer who boarded at Pasir Mas showed up at our coach and joined us.
We were in a never, never land when we were jolted by an announcement that we have reached Sg Mengkuang and like robot, all of us rushed up and readied to disembark. Only when Hassin said 'korang nak pergi mana!' we realised the joke. Came on board at Sg Mengkuang was Cikgu Zelief with durian and all ha ha ha. Well, we were back to our sleeping positions ha ha.
A few minutes after we were back in the dreamland the Ticket Conductor (TC) came around to announce that we were approaching Slow Pok Long. The TC knew that we were disembarking there because we were too friendly that we announced to the whole world of our intention. Well, actually the TC knew us the crazy railway fans. After crossing the viaduct the train slowed down even more. At 6.58 am we disembarked at Slow Pok Long.
The arrival at Slow Pok Long was also an event for us. Although no welcoming party nevertheless there was the usual ceremony to mark the historic occasion. Anticipating a great day we thanked the train crew and disembarked at a dark and foggy Slow Pok Long that is now officially named as Kg Baru, Bukit Abu. A few school children boarded after we disembarked. Slow Pok Long is not a station but a halt. A halt for train services is like a small bus stand. That's what it is a train stand a appose to the bus stand. There are many halts in the east coastline.
All of us did not seem to want to leave the halt yet, we did the thing that was natural to us. Looking through my viewfinder I focused the length of the foggy track as if expecting somebody to walk on the track beyond. Ha ha ha that would be spooky and Dracularist. Everyone was busy capturing the experience and one still wondering 'why the hell am I here' ha ha ha. Of course, it would not be complete without a group photo there. Hassin set up his tripod and we posed with our best smile. As if all the action heroes getting psyched up for the day.
After our photo session, we walked down to the kampung main tarmac road to walk to the viaduct. According to Hassin, it was not far so we primed ourselves to enjoy the kampung while we were walking. The kampung is actually in between two high ranges like in the valley. You just can feel it as you walk as it created a pleasant fall like weather. Thus, walking was so pleasant. The Slow Pok Long train halt and the track were well about 5 storeys above the kampung. So walking down to the kampung main road was a breeze. Immediately my thought was thinking the climb under the midday sun to catch our train later ha ha ha. Immediately down on the opposite of the road were two big kampung houses and in front one of them was a coffee shop. Since it was very early morning there were a few kampung folks having breakfast and talking. On seeing us all of them were wondering what in the world a bunch of outsiders laden with cameras walking down from the halt to their kampung. It would not wrong if they thought that we were wildlife hobbyists or reporters. We gave salam to them, smile and walked on. One of them did ask us and we just said we were taking photos of the train.
We walked, walked and walked ha ha ha and slowly beginning to crack jokes on Hassin’s early statement that it was not that far. Finally, we arrived under the viaduct and when I looked at my handphone it was 7.45 am. Which meant we had been walking for about 45 minutes ha ha ha. Not a long walk ha ha ha but at least a very nice walk under the canopy of cooling fruit trees of Slow Pok Long. Actually, it was really a good pleasant walk that really had a positive effect on us. I think we had walked slightly less than 2 km.
The sight that greeted us when we arrived at the viaduct made the walking worth it. In fact, it paid off the whole of our journey from KL. We walked admiring it looking up with our shutter release working overtime. What made it even dramatic was the constant fogs blowing in engulfing the viaduct. We just loved it.
We walked under the viaduct and entered a property owned by an agricultural company that in the midst of clearing the hilly farm. Right at the entrance on the left was a small security hut manned by one of the kampung folk. He seemed not the least surprised to see us and just observed us from the door of his hut. He must have known our intention. We approached with our friendly smiles and gave our salam which he accepted with a smile as well. We started to chat him up and very glad that we had a friendly new acquaintance. Inside his hut, we saw a TV set with Astro reception to keep him company at night. At the back of the hut was an outhouse good enough for us to use if necessary.
The first train, a shuttle from Kuala Lipis will cross the viaduct at around 8 am. We scouted the area for our staging points. Obviously individually we cannot have them all.
We discussed it and collaboratively decided the spot each of us going to be. I let my decision to the very end to discover truly the best spot. In the end, all of them were and I settled for the panorama shot. Since Bazree was shooting video I decided to complement that with stills to frame the entire length of the viaduct. We made the best and started to plan and practise our shots. From our point, we saw two Pinang trees closed to one another that high enough where if you were at the top you can shoot that train level with the viaduct. Bazree and I joked that if only we could climb that two trees ha ha ha.
Ameer opted an angled shot from below the viaduct at 35 degrees his point was actually up on the diesel tank beside an old earth mover. Cipul chose the angle from the opposite of us. Burhan chose to shoot further back of Cipul that proved to be the best point to capture a travel photo scene. While Zaidani parked himself up on a ridge under a canopy of small brush capturing at 45 degrees angle capturing the train head-on. Cik Gu Zalief chose to be a bit closer to the viaduct. The only person that was unsure and undecided was Hassin. He surveyed and walked at almost every angle but still. In the end, for the first session, he climbed an old tractor parked about 10 metres from Ameer as his point. All of us pretty set and waited for our first train. As they say, the agony is in the planning, testing and the waiting. I did not know how many test shots that I took but more than enough for an album.
The shuttle from Kuala Lipis to Tumpat emerged at 8.22am. I say emerged because from down below our view was blocked by the bushes and trees. We had our informants at various stations along the route updating us on the movement of our train. However, when it was getting nearer we relied on our point men, Burhan and Cipul that had a long view of the viaduct and tracks. Initially it was the sound of the locomotive and Burhan and Cipul would yell to us to get ready and we were ready. In my case eyes looking through the viewfinder with my camera pointing at the ending of the viaduct where the train will emerge. Once it did all shutters went off like we were shooting machine guns. It was a beautiful sound a symphony to our ears. I shot zooming in and out first zooming in to capture the locomotive emerging at the beginning and then slowly zooming out capturing it snaking out bit by bit until I got most of the train across the viaduct. I closed it by following the train slowly disappearing into the hill.
The real thing happened in just one minute, we shot as planned and any mistakes you just suffered alone looking at the frames again and again. Cursing ourselves in the process. That was what exactly had happened after the train passed. Everyone came down to compare notes. A lot of aaaaaaa missed it and alamaks ha ha ha. Everyone started to review their frames and in the end, we got what we wanted and planned what to do and capture for the next train that was scheduled to arrive at 10 am.
We gathered under the shade of the hut that had turned into our logistics and war room. We had not had our breakfast then albeit a few bites of biscuits and bread. So we borrowed the motorbike of the good kampung folk that was responsible for the security of the site and sent Ameer away to find us whatever he could get for breakfast. While we chatted with the kampong folk and started to find our own space to be comfortable for a while. While waiting the guys started to assault on the durians that Cik Gu brought along. They started slowly with one. After 15 minutes Ameer came back with a few kueh and several packets of iced milo. With the day getting hotter the iced milos were sucked flat in few minutes. Like a vacuum effect when air is sucked out of an empty plastic bag. The guys continued devouring the rest of the durian. I was just the spectator then, as durian is not my thing anymore. While eating all kind of stories emerged. Somehow all related to train ha ha ha. From the woes of the management of train services to the basic day-to-day running of the trains. Most of us are connected to all aspects of the trains services in Malaysia. Despite setbacks and heartaches, we persevere and still would be on the train at least once a month. If not trains spotting either in the east and southern lines.
At around 9.45 am we dispersed to our chosen locations. All of us except for Hassin decided to go back to the same shooting points but with different shooting strategy. Hassin moved around to find his spot. He climbed up to the very edge of the track to find a good angle. He was like army commando at work ha ha ha. By this time the day was getting really hot and since Bazree and I were in the open the waiting was a bit challenging. We shifted under a bush shed after a while standing. Only those under the canopy of the trees that were a bit comfortable.
At 10.08 am our point man yelled that Express Timuran was approaching. Both of us scurried from our made shift shed to take our positions. Again, it was the sound of the locomotive that immediately we placed our eyes at the viewfinder. As the sound got louder the more anxious we got and we did not want to miss even a small thing. It was Pulau Pangkor tirelessly pulling the loads and from down below we could see clearly how it has been abused to the fullest for the tasks KTMB set for it. The colours were a painful sight with water stains from the previous flood among other things. Again in less than 1 minute than train passed. Frantically, we captured what we could and the second time we were wiser we thought. But we were not ha ha ha ha. Another series of aaaaaaaaa, mangkukkkkk and other cursing words came out off our mouths. The only thing then we did not have the third opportunity ha ha. We have to live with what we got. With that, we regrouped at the hut. Our train to Dabong would be at 1.15 pm and still we had a few hours to kill. We had an impromptu meeting and the decision was to check out the tunnels. There were two tunnels close to one another nearby.
To cut the story short, we walked to the tunnels enjoyed the place, took a lot of photos and at around 11.30 am we were backed at the hut. Strategising on how to get back to the halt to wait for our train to Dabong. It was already a hot midday sun and walking the ‘dekat je’ distance to was definitely out of the question. In a desperate time like that our brains worked best. We negotiated with the guard at the hut to use his bike to transport all of us one by one to the halt. I was the first one to be shuttled by Ameer. Ameer dropped me at a waiting hut down below the halt. I made a decision to wait for the others there as it was cooler under the shade and I hate walking up the hill alone. While I was waiting, the owner of the house across the road saw me sitting and came to join to chat. Asking me about why we were there and so on. I shared that his kampung although quite secluded and not easily accessible was beautiful and peaceful. Apart from the viaduct and train we honestly do love the kampung. The next person to be transported and arrived a few minutes later was Cipul. At which point the kampung folk left us and shortly came back with a basket of durian. From the look of them were very tasty durian. He brought along his parang and asked us to help ourselves. Retired from eating durian I left them to Cipul and later others to devour the durian. Cipul kept on urging me to eat and every time, to their amazement, I declined. A quick durian feast went on just before we climbed to the halt. The kampung folk asked us to take the rest with us. We thanked him profusely and walked up carrying the durian.
Ha ha ha up at the halt another durian feasting took place. Even that we could not finish the durian and decided to give them to the TCs on board later.
The train, Shuttle 55 arrived and we boarded at 1.15pm. All of us were really tired but because all of us were hungry, not of durian, of proper lunch, we could not go to sleep. About 40 minutes later we arrived at Dabong. We practically jumped out and straight away walked to the warung nearby. Without describing any details we cleaned up the warung ha ha ha. Happily, we ate and told stories of each other experiences at Slow Pok Long. Communities of Practice (CoPs) at its best. All of us from different backgrounds and age but share the same passion on anything about train.
Shuttle 56 was actually Shuttle 55 that we boarded that became shuttle 56 on the return journey back to Tumpat. Thus we were not worried about our train because it was already on the platform that will depart at 2.30 pm. We took our own sweet time at the warung. But the pull of the train on the platform was too strong for us that we abandoned the warung to have another shooting session. We bought our tickets and waited until the station master blew his whistle to board. At 2.30 pm sharp we departed Dabong with the train full of school children going home. Thus we took the shuttle bus sekolah to and fro that day. Now it was the time for us to have a good sleep to Tanah Merah. But we did not go to sleep until we passed Slow Pok Long viaduct.
We were awake for a few minutes along the journey when Cik Gu Zalief disembarked at Sg Mengkuang Halt.
We arrived at Tanah Merah at 4.42 pm and straight away we crossed the road and walked towards Humaira Hotel. We had taken a room for all of us to clean up and rest before we boarded our bus home at around 10 pm. We rested a bit and at 6 pm we went out walking to check out the Saturday night Pasar Malam nearby. We just enjoyed walking and bought our dinner. The plan was to have a picnic at the Tanah Merah train station. I actually was not sure what to eat and had to go back the length of the Pasar Malam to look again and buy my dinner. The rest of the guys went ahead towards the station. I would join them a bit later. I was really not sure of what I wanted to eat and in the end, I settled for murtabak I think.
When I got to the station I looked around and immediately saw the guys already sitting at the end of the platform under the open sky feasting on whatever they bought. Of course, we knew they would be a shuttle from Gua Musang and Express Rakyat Timuran from Tumpat going to pass through the station. So our feast became really a welcoming party for both the trains. I decided to capture both trains with BULB speed. Without my tripod, I placed my camera at one of the ‘tiangs’ - beams. I did 5 and 10 seconds exposures to capture the effect I wanted. No matter that we had been capturing trains the whole day, once the train approached we were kids again nevertheless.
The main intercity express bus terminal in Tanah Merah was way outside of the town a little bit with the only access for us was to walk. Hassin told us it would be quite a walk and we had to start early so as not to miss our bus. Once we were at the hotel we said our prayers and checked out. Initially, we walked in a big group and after about 20 metres walking we became three groups with Burhan and myself being the last group at the back. I knew it would be far, so I paced myself. I figured as long as one of us already there they will make sure the bus would not leave without us ha ha ha. We chatted as we walked to ease the pain ha ha ha
Indeed, it was almost 2 km walk for us that night. When we arrived we were early and sat to wait for about 1 hour. Burhan was taking a different bus to Kertih while the rest of us to TBS KL. So we searched and waited for both at the bus stand nearby. As scheduled Burhan’s bus arrived earlier. We said goodbye and he boarded. Quite frankly it was a bit sad moment for me to see him leave. A few minutes later our bus arrived and we boarded. We were very tired already before our 2 km walk, so once we were inside the bus we went under almost straight away. I personally did not wake up until we arrived at the rest area at Merapoh at around 1.30 am. We disembarked to empty our bladders. We were not so much for eating and we just lepak waiting for the drivers to finish their food.
Just before Suboh we arrived at TBS and Hassin woke me up as I was sleeping like a log. I just could not imagine what sort of concerto I produced that night but I am very sure I snored as I was very tired. We parted ways with the rest while Hassin and I went down to the Komuter Station to board our train back to Bangi. At the surau there we said our Suboh. At 6.20am we were already on the platform waiting for our train. Sadly or gladly ended one more adventure for us. Something that I really cherished.
However, the aftermath of the trip took a very bad turn for me as I was rushed to the emergency ward a day after I came home. But then that’s another story for me to share in private ha ha ha
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